August 15, 2007

  • Tea Culture

    PLACE OF ORIGIN

    china tea garden

    The tea plant, Camellia Sinensis has been cultivated for so long that its home as a wild plant is a matter of speculation. Certainly in south – east China tea has been used as a beverage for between two and three thousand years, and nobody has ever claimed to have found wild tea in China proper. From time to time assertions have been made that wild types have been found, but in all probability these plants, usually found in clusters, are relics of previous cultivation in the unrecorded past. Considering the localities in South – East Asia where various types of tea are now established, it is likely that they have been dispersed from a centre near to the source of the Irrawaddy and have been spread out fan – wise into south – east China, Indo – China and Assam. Moreover according to Kingdom Ward it is probable that this locus was only a secondary one and that the indigenous species had its origin farther north. In support of this contention it is pointed out that, in the three areas mentioned, the greater part of the tea conforms to an individual type, but that in each place examples of one of the other types can be found.

    From the main centers of cultivation in south – East Asia tea has spread far and wide into tropical and subtropical areas whose broad characteristics correspond to regions of tropical rain forest, tropical savannah and summer rain. From being a traditional peasant cultivation in the Far East, tea culture has developed into an important plantation industry employing considerable capital and controlled at the present time mainly by limited companies of European origin.

    SOUTH – EAST ASIA

    mountains todd & holland

    The extension of the industry in its modern form started in India. Between 1818 and 1834 several private individuals and government officials had interested themselves in the possibilities of tea cultivation in North – East India, primarily as a source of revenue, but also because relations with China, the sole source of the commodity for European trade, were disturbed and from time to time normal trade was suspended. Claims were made that ‘wild tea’ had been discovered in Nepal and the Manipur district. Representations were made to the Governor – General which resulted in the formation of a ‘Committee of Tea Culture’ in 1834 consisting of ‘gentlemen of high character and great intelligence’ in Calcutta. After experimenting at the Calcutta Botanical Gardens with a consignment of tea seed from China attention was turned to tea found growing n a ‘wild’ state within the territory of the East India Company, from Sadiya to the borders of the Chinese province of Yunnan. The Chinese importations were discontinued and the future Indian enterprise was developed from these locally discovered types. From the start, the industry was built up on the basis of the limited liability company.

    In Ceylon the serious cultivation of tea began in the decade of the 1870’s. There is a record of ten acres in 1867 and by 1880, 14,226 acres were reported. In the next fifteen years expansion had reached the total of 305,000 acres, for, with governmental encouragement, tea was replacing coffee which was rapidly being devastated by the attacks of the Coffee Rust fungus.

    In Java, following an initial importation of seed from Japan in 1824, six journeys were made between 1827 and 1833 by a government envoy to collect seed and workmen from China. Tea cultivation was a government monopoly, and continued so until 1860. It was unremunerative and remained so until the introduction of Assam types in 1878. The foundation of tea culture in Sumatra was inaugurated in 1909 by a British firm.

    AFRICA

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    In Africa tea was being grown at the Durban Botanic Gardens in 1850 and developed into a local plantation industry of small extent in Natal after a coffee failure in 1877 similar to that of Ceylon. In 1943 there were 2000 acres but these have subsequently gone out of cultivation.

    The oldest continuing tea industry in Africa is that of Malawi. From an introduction of tea seed in 1878 there were no survivors, but the Church of Scotland Mission procured seed via Kew and Edinburgh in 1886 and 1888 respectively, and from the progeny of the plants thus raised the first estate was planted in 1891.

    OTHER REGIONS

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    Russia now counts as one of the chief areas where tea is grown. In 1913 an acreage of 18,000 is recorded and the latest estimates reach a figure of 162,800 acres in Russian Transcaucasia (Georgia) on the shores of the Black Sea. In the course of development mechanical aids to cultivation, notably mechanical plucking, have been used.

    In addition to the major tea – producing territories there are almost a score of others where tea is now grown or has been given a trial. Their wide dispersion is evident from the following catalogue of localities: Malaya, Burma (Shan States), Thailand, Vietnam, Mauritius, Belgian Congo, Rhodesia, Portuguese East Africa, Ethiopia, St. Helena, Cameroons, Brazil, Peru, Argentine, Paraguay, Colombia, Bolivia, Mexico, Martinique, Iran, Carolina, Australia, Turkey and Corsica. Their latitudes range from 40° N. to 33° S.

August 12, 2007

  • Tea Manufacturing..
     
    The train of diffrent processes that fresh plucked leaf undergoes is designed in the first place to prepare the leaf for fermentation; in the second to establish teh best conditions for its action and finally to aresst the process when it has gone far enough.
     
    The care and attention needed to ensure satisfactory manufacture should start in the field. The treatment of the leaf from the moment of detachment from the bush to that place where manufacturing begins is also of equal importance. The fermentation process begins immediately a leaf is bruised. If this occurs in the pluckers hand, or in the containers in which the leaf is transported to the factory, such fermentation is uncontrolled. Careful handling of plucked leaf and avoidance of tight packing in bags, baskets or other containers are of the essence of good manufacturing technique.
     
    WITHERING
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    In systems of traditional manufacture the first stage in the processing of tea is withering. Normally this is carried out by spreading the tea leaves, thinly on banks of trays or “tats” made of tightly stretched jute hessian or wire netting. Ten to fifteen squre feet per pound of fresh leaf is a normal density of spread. The tats are spaced five to six inches apart, to allow free access of air, with alley-ways between each bank to allow distribution and removal of leaf.
     
    Light withers (40 to 42 per cent out turn) are usual in Assam and East Africa, and medium to hard withers (45 to 50 per cent out turn) are normal in ceylon. The average lenghth of time for withering is eighteen to twenty hours where tats are used. There is much flexibility in these figures depending from factory to factory.
     
    The prime objective of withering is to prepare the leaf for rolling by making the leaf tissues flaccid and permeable to the juices which the rolling will wring out and spread evenly upon the surface.
     
    Insufficent attention to withering standards leads to many complications later.
     
    In the subsequent stage of rolling it is difficult to keep under-withered leaf from being thrown out of the machine, and in extreme instances the juices may be expressed and lost. When unduly wet the macerated leaf clogs the sieves of the sifiting machine. Most serious of all, to light a wither will overtax the drier inthe firing process. Under-withered leaf also tends to produce flaky tea of low apparent specific gravity.
     
    Long withers have a favourable on colour in the brewed tea but this is secured on the expense of quality. Where long withers are the result of too slow a removal of surface moisture , in this there is a risk of the rapid proliferation of ubiquitous and unwanted bacteria which produces dull and characterless tea.
     
    ROLLING
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    When a satisfactory wither has been obtained the leaf is ready for rolling, which twists the leaf, breaks it up and expresses the juices. The machines used vary in size and design but their principles are alike: they compress and turn the leaf over, keeping it in continula motion, in a manner that is similar to, and derived from, the operation of rubbing leaf between the palms of the hand in primitive chinese fashion.
     
    What the machines do in the process of rolling is another long chapter – that we shall discuss some other time – have kipped it for the moment.
     
    The green color of the leaves diminishes and the brown or coppery colour of the oxidation products begins to appear.
     
    At this stage there are a number of points related to the design of rollers and to procedure that require emphasis because they affect the whole course of manufacture and the quality of finished tea. The first is that the onset of rolling is accompanied by the evolution of heat.
     
    Pressure, by consolidating the leaf, confines the accumulated heat and that is why, in traditional rolling programmes, periods with and without pressure are generally alternated.
     
    Excessive pressure in the early stages of rolling affects the physical appearance of the tea.
     
    The number of times a batch of leaf is rolled varies according to the type of tea to be produced, the degree of wither of the leaf and the kind of roller used. In general the lightly withered leaf common to Assam or African procedures receives a smaller number of rolls than medium or hard withered leaf in Ceylon. The usual range is from three to five rolling periods. The aim is first to twist the leaf and then progressively to break it up into small particles by increased pressure till the major portion has been sifted through the green leaf sifters.
     
    ROLL BREAKING AND GREEN LEAF SIFTING
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    On discharge from the roller the leaf mass is more or less compressed into lumps. These are broken up in the sifting process by the machine which usually combines the operation of roll breaker and sifter. In essence this is a rectangular sieve, set at a moderate angle, mechanically agitated. The roller discharge is fed into a hopper in which beaters revolve to break up the mass, after which the tea falls onto the sieve and slowly travels to the other end for discharge. In the course of this passage the smaller particles fall through.
     
    The roll breaker and green leaf sifter performs three essential functions. In the first instance it cools the leaf and thus prevents the retention of excessive heat: secondly, it aerates the mass, and thirdly, by sieving out particles of small size, it seperates leaf into portions that will be reasonably uniform in their rate of fermentation. To achieve this uniformity careful operation is needed. The leaf should be fed continuously at an even rate and be well spread across the width of the sieve.
     
    FERMENTATION
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    Fermentation starts in the rollers but is continued in the dhool stage. The sifted dhools (smaller particles) are spread out in thin layers, in order to continue the oxidative processes. There is great variety in the materials that are used to accomodate this spread – out leaf. Tiles, cement and aluminium are most commonly used, the essential point being that they should be easily cleaned. The thickness of spread controls three important factors, the temperature of the leaf, the rate of moisture loss and the access of oxygen. With layers two inches thick temperature losses sufficient to retard fermentation are not likely. Some factories install air – conditioning plant to ensure controlled conditions. Good air circulation without draughts is needed to attain good fermentation conditions. In hot climates the air is kept humid with less than 4 degree F. hygrometric difference. In colder regions the circulating atmosphere is artifically heated. In either event moist air, to prevent surface drying, is advisable. For economical working it is better to ferment in a special fermentation room whose atmospheric conditions can be easily controlled.
     
    During fermentation the leaf changes colour and becomes a dark copper colour. The typical aroma develops and by the subjective judgement of its intensity the period necessary for completion is judged. Time of fermentation is reckoned from the time at which rolling begins and it should be as short as practicable. After four and a half hours there is appreciable loss of quality.
     
    FIRING
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    The general principle adopted in firing is that of subjecting the fermented tea to a forced blast of hot air in such a manner that the hottest air comes first into contact with the driest tea. To bring this about the older driers, some of which are still in use, were provided with a banked series of perforated trays carrying the dhools, which were systematically altered in position as the drying operation proceeded; a fresh tray being inserted at the exhaust end as the trays were moved and the final one removed.
    A similar pattern of movement was also provided for in machines which had fixed trays built in narrow strips which could be mechanically tilted so as to discharge their leaf onto the tray below, leaving the upper one ready to load with the next portion of unfired dhool.
     
    Modern machines employ the principle of perforated sections mounted on an endless chain. The sections are arranged in a tier of six units which alternate in their direction of motion. The tea is fed onto the top section, and moves in conveyor – belt fashion till it discharges onto the tray immediately below, which is moving in the opposite direction; and so on till the dried tea is discharged at the bottom. Hot air is provided by means of a furnance or steam boiler through which pass tubes connecting with the outer atmosphere.
     
    Thickness of spread, speed of trays and volume or air blown can all be regulated at will.
     
    Inlet temperatures usually range from 180 degree F to 200 degree F., according to the degree of wither, and outlet temperatures are in the range of 120 degree F. to 130 degree F.
     
    During the drying process the enzyme responsibly for fermentation is inactivated. After the tea is dry maturation processes occur but these are not due to enzyme activity. The manner of firing plays an important role in determining the quality. Teas fired at high temperature are deficient in pungency, quality and flavour, but their keeping properties are satisfactory. Contrariwise teas can be satisfactorily fired at temperatures as low as 160 degree F. provided that the final moisture content is correct. These teas retain their quality and flavour but deteriorate on storage.
     
    GRADING AND SORTING
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    Grading is carried out for the most part on mechanically oscillated sieves, similar in genral principle to those used in the green stage, and fitted with meshes of appropriate size.
     
    The grades in general production are named as follows: Broken Orange Pekoe; Broken Pekoe; Orange Pekoe; Pekoe; Souchong; Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings; Fannings and Dust.
     
    Before tea is packed the accumulated series of daily batches of each grade are bulked and mixed in order to ensure as high a degree of uniformity as possible. The tea is then packed into chests holding approximately 100 lb. or 50 lb. (half chests). These chests are usually of plywood lined with almunium foil and paper and sealed with similar material.
     
    Jim in J Thomas 006

August 11, 2007

  • Meghma Oolong Tea – 

    A Special Organic, Biodynamic Ethnic Tea Cultivation Project in the Himalayas

    The Meghma Oolong Tea Project is promoted by Madan Tamang, the guiding spirit behind the spirit of Meghma Agro Industries without profit being its primary motive. The Meghma Oolong Tea project aims at promoting the living standards of the local people of Meghma, which presently is just above the poverty line.  Madan has been a close friend of mine from a long time and we have been doing this venture together arm in arm for the promotion of this backward area which still lacks electricity.

    We are confident that with firm determination in our activities this mystic and fertile land can become ten – fold more productive than before.

    Meghma Oolong is a semi fermented tea, giving pale brew with a refreshing honey flavor. The taste is reminiscent of spring vegetation, and differs from occidental varieties having golden brew and a different flavor.

    It is cultivated in the highlands of the Himalayas above 7000ft in and around Meghma, in the highest range of tea cultivation in this region. The tea garden lies pristine in pure and natural environment away from road traffic, free of pollution and use of pesticides.

    The tea is manufactured traditionally by hand. We have rediscovered the art of manufacturing oriental Oolong Tea. You can drink Oolong tea throughout the day, with and between meals. The tea is especially effective in reducing cholesterol levels and thus goes excellent after fatty meals. Recent Japanese research suggests that Oolong tea reduces blood pressure and prevents atherosclerotic diseases.

    Bringing about Change

    The Meghma Oolong tea project is unique because the tea cultivation and production help to uplift the economy as well as the social and environmental conditions of the surrounding areas. The local people take active part in the project. So far the people of Meghma have been dependent to a large extent on subsistence farming.

    Future project aims to further develop Meghma and its surroundings are the organic cultivation of vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, edible ferns and medicinal plants for extracting essentials oils, as well as the production of cheese, honey and handmade paper.

    Tching had recently organised an online tea tasting of our meghma oolong and we are glad that people really appreciated it and the reviews were really nice to go through.

    The income from the sale of this tea will partly be used to re – cultivate 400 acres of rhododendron forest that once covered this entire hill region.

    For further information, and, may be, for a short visit to Meghma when you are in India next time, please contact us.

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August 7, 2007

  • Tea Packaging…

    Once these excellent teas are made, these should be packaged and presented to the consumers in a right way too.

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  • The Champagne of Tea
     
    Darjeeling is the champagne of Indian tea. On the world market, without the name Darjeeling, Indian tea would be like French wine without the prestige of champagne. This wine of wines forms only 3 percent of the total production in France but its prestige-value is incalculable.

    Other countries like Italy, Germany, Portugal and Spain produce just  as good wine as France does. In fact, certain varieties like Morselle and Riesling from Germany and Chianti from Italy are far better than their French comparables. And yet, France experiences a unique pride and enjoys an unusual prestige in the realm of wine. In fact, in the mind of the average person, especially outside Europe, good wine is synonymous with French wine.

    As with champagne and wine, so with Darjeeling and tea, the mention of the finest tea anywhere in the world immediately brings to the mind the sound of the word Darjeeling. The district produces only about ten million kilograms of tea which is about 1 percent of the total Indian production. Yet, it is reported that ten times as much tea is sold as Darjeeling tea both overseas as well as in India. Instances have been detected when a tea packet purported to have been packed in another country claimed to contain pure Darjeelings. Such is the charisma of the word Darjeeling and the temptation to exploit it to realize either a premium price or a larger sale. 

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  • Kishanganj Snow Buds…  

    It was an honour to get a place on Tching and MarshalN’s blogs for our teas alongwith Nepal’s Meghma oolongs and Glenburn wonder.

    Making extraordinary teas is the answer to the survival of tea industry. Though the responces were far fewer then the onces on Darjeeling rare oolongs but we are happy that these teas from unknown places are getting the right exposure.

    Kashanganj Snow Buds de

August 2, 2007

  • Bihar Tea plantation industrial policy…

    Raju Daftari of Kishangunj and I went to Patna to meet the Bihar Deputy Chief Minister Sri Sushilji Modi to discuss and impliment the land and labour matters in the current tea plantations industrial policy to be declared soon to help safeguard the tea planter’s interests.

    rajiv lochan  SushilModi

July 28, 2007

  • Indira…

    How fast is she growing – and especially girls grow fast. Vicky has put up her website. After seeing my own children grow, it is an extremly nice experience to see the third generation take shape.

     indira 2-3 mnd 008

July 26, 2007

  •  AIDs awareness…

    CII and Inner Wheel co-sponsored the AIDs awareness and Human trafficking issues seminar yesterday at Darjeeling for two days on 26th & 27th July 2007. I chaired the meeting and all the NGOs operating there alongwith Maiti Nepal and district administration and other related health authoritoies were present there. This problem is so grave there and so little is done because of government apathy. We provided a strong plateform to everybody taking care of this problem and it was so encouraging to see the responce and attendance.

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  • Darjeeling Club…

    Started in 1850 it is our meeting place, which we are proud of. Situated in the center of the town, it has lots of history written in itself.

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